This is a longer post than usual and also the most difficult one I've written. The conflicts in Egypt, Libya, Yemen, Bahrain and the list goes on....have been very hard to keep up with - situations have been constantly changing at a break neck speed since I sat down to write. However, I've been doing my best to keep up and revise as necessary - so I apologize in advance, for any inconsistencies.
That said, Egypt is near and dear to my heart, so I wanted to focus on my experiences meeting people there, as well as, what is going on politically right now. I believe it's important to view politics through the lens of humanity whenever possible - it is so easy to read the headlines and forget to see the people behind the stories.
Thanks, KW
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I remember learning in an 8th grade history class that, "Egypt was the gift of the Nile." My teacher explained that without the waters of the Nile, Egypt would be nothing but a vast waste land of sand and dust, so anything that grew out of Egypt, was in fact, a gift of the Nile.
It was an interesting thought - but a river is just a river.
What intrigued me more was the fact that for centuries, a hard working and industrious group of desert dwellers could use its waters not just to carve out a meager existence, but to thrive in a very hostile environment, while at the same time creating one of the most incredible civilizations in history.
I had seen pictures of the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx, the temples at Abu Simbel, Luxor and Karnak, but even NAT GEO in HD doesn't hold a candle to the real thing - it's only a colorful shadow of things that need to be seen with your own eyes to appreciate.
Just as with the rest of Africa, Egypt is a place that demands one's full attention, if only to capture just a hint of what it truly is. It is such a mix of disparate things, traditional and modern, Western and Mid-Eastern, religious and secular - it keeps one foot solidly in the past and one foot firmly in the future.
Egypt is not a place that "once was," built by ghosts from another age - it is a place full of life, where the future of Middle East and Africa is currently being shaped.
The Egyptians
In the early to mid-90's, shortly after the Gulf war, I went to Egypt twice. Of course, the big draw for me were the ancient ruins & museums, but I found that I was just as impressed with the kindness and generosity of the Egyptians I encountered. At that time, the U.S. military was very prominently engaged in the region , so I was concerned about how an American would be perceived. Soon after my arrival, I realized that Egyptians are very adept at understanding the difference between a government and its citizens.
This may come from the experience of being stereotyped themselves.
Some jaded readers out there might believe my tourist dollars were the reason for the warm reception - which is understandable, if that is all one has to offer. If you never go beyond the superficial, it's unlikely you will ever experience the authentic.
At one point, due to an incorrect flight booking, I realized I was waiting for a non-existent plane. I spent 9 hours in the Cairo airport hoping to get put on a stand-by flight, IF there was an available seat.
Several of the gate agents and airport shop keepers heard about my dilemma - news travels fast in the Cairo airport - and over the course of several hours I had met manyl very hospitable people. Folks were offering me hibiscus tea, keeping me company or seeing if they had some airline connection that could help me get on a flight to Luxor.
I found it to be a sincere, unprovoked outpouring of kindness. No money was exchanged.
By mid- afternoon, an Egyptian military pilot at the airport attempted to get clearance to fly me to Luxor in his MILITARY JET PLANE (which would have been BEYOND cool). Unfortunately, clearance wasn't forth coming, but he gave me his business card and told me to call him if I needed any other help while in Egypt.
An older gentleman that owned a shop in the airport was regularly checking on me throughout the day as I sat in airport limbo. At one point, I asked him in the middle of our conversation, why he was so concerned about me?" He smiled and said, " If my daughter or sister were in the same situation, I would expect another man to do the same - out of respect." He felt strongly that as an Egyptian, and a Muslim, it was his obligation to help me.
My impression, up to this point, had always been of Muslim men persecuting or suppressing women through religion - and no doubt, most religions taken to their extreme tend to do this. After talking to Egyptian men and women about religion while I was there, I realized that in this moderate country, religion was more about respect, not suppression or religious fanaticism. Egyptian women could choose the style of their dress based on their personal religions beliefs, they could drive, get a college education, go out alone, hold professional jobs, etc. without religious repercussions.
It's not to say Egypt has a perfect society, they have their share of crime and problems, but then again, so do we.
The Conflict
Egypt is undoubtedly loaded with people that are kind, educated and reasonable. It's not surprising to me that these same people are responsible for PEACEFULLY overthrowing the government that treated them so oppressively in the past, and so openly in recent days at Tahrir Square. It is a tremendous achievement that Egyptians did not meet violence with violence.
That said, their efforts were supported by an Egyptian military, a group that could have easily smashed them into oblivion, but didn't. I doubt citizens of Iran would be so lucky. I believe that the most successful of these African/ Middle eastern revolutions still unfolding, will have the military aligned with the people- that's the only way they can win.
Egypt has completed the first phase in a long process, but the economy is going to be their next big battle.
I'll Take Egypt for $1000 Alex...
52% of Americans polled by the Pew Research Center a couple of weeks ago, said they knew very little about the current situation in Egypt. I hope awareness has gone up since that time, but engaging the American public is something that starts with the curiosity of our citizens, not the media. News coverage can be wall to wall, but if Americans don't care, it doesn't matter, does it?
Egyptians that I came across while there, seemed to love talking about how much they liked our former U.S. Ambassador to Egypt. He regularly engaged with Egyptian citizens and appreciated the fact that he showed up to local events. I have to say that I was slightly embarrassed, since I had no idea who the Egyptian Ambassador to the U.S. was or what he was doing...
As recently as last week, I saw a picture an Egyptian man celebrating his freedom in Tahrir square, while holding a sign in support of Wisconsin union workers. I was surprised and couldn't even imagine how this young man even knew about what was going on in Wisconsin! It speaks to the education and awareness of the Egyptian citizens...
The United States is a very influential country and what we do, say, and finance impacts most countries of the world directly, so many around the globe pay close attention to what we do. However, our citizens should remember that even though we live in a country that is powerful & has many concerns, there is no excuse for Americans to be completely ignorant of other countries and their conditions.
Now that a revolution has taken place and Mubarak is gone, I hope that Americans start taking a stronger interest in Egypt, Africa & the Middle East. If we are concerned at all about the development of democracy in Egypt, peace between Israel in the Middle East, the flow of oil through the Suez canal, the stability of the Arab world, or where our aid money is going, then we need to know the basics.
Through this kind of understanding, Americans may also find a renewed appreciation of freedom, dignity and democracy by watching the Egyptians and others over the coming months.
It's been a long time since our own revolution, but they may help us to remember the importance of what we did in our own country and the battle that others are currently undertaking.
The Revolution Will Be Tweeted
It's amazing to think that the lifeline of the Egyptian revolution flowed through Twitter, Facebook and even Google indirectly. I imagine the founders of Twitter and Facebook had no concept that their technologies would be used in such an important way and play such a vital role in the overthrow of dictators and governments. Though these are private U.S. companies, it's comforting to know that they created something helpful and good in a part of the world where all things American are looked at with apprehension.
I read today that an Egyptian couple had just named their newborn, "Facebook." I know, he'll probably change it when he gets old enough, but it's hard to deny the feeling behind it.
The world has become a much smaller place - technology is linking people in so many ways and power is shifting rapidly.
The Elephant in the Region
Egyptians, not unlike the Libyans, Tunisians, Yemenis, Zimbabweans, Kenyans and so many others that are frustrated by oppressive, long-term dictators and have had enough. The old structure is being shaken to its core and the results remain to be seen. What has been "stable" in the past, is unstable.
Depending on the country, the official U.S. government views about the uprisings have been nuanced at best - and why is that?
The Obama Administration has been tip toeing through this political mind field rather gingerly. Our government's position is crafted by the political and economic ramifications of not just Egypt, but Iran, Bahrain, Libya, Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, Yemen and Israel and policies that overlap those countries and others. It also is subject to a "Frankenstein" of past treaties and agreements created by previous administrations and powerful business interests, that still carry great significance. To make matters worse, we are waging a war in Afghanistan, Israel is a strong ally of ours, and the outcome of the invasion, occupation and the exit of troops from Iraq has also bred contempt for the U.S.
We are between Iraq and a hard place... (sorry, had to do it)
Through the administration's diplomacy-speak, it seemed, at least to me, that we supported the Egyptian population's desire for freedom without Mubarak. However, full-throated U.S.support for overthrow in Egypt would have resulted in more problems and political upheaval, in countries with similar governments that we support, no matter our sentiment for Egyptians. Any signs that our administration is over reaching or interfering with Egypt's revolution or any other revolt in the area, will not help our cause or their's and might even impeded the success of certain revolutions. The administration realizes there are no good options, which keeps them on the ropes until definite changes start to emerge.
I have been pondering the $1.3 billion in aid to Egypt's military that some Americans have been recently become aware of, and consequently upset by. That money was granted to benefit (in no particular order) U.S. military equipment manufacturers, sustained enforcement of the peace treaty between Egypt & Israel and to assist an Arab nation that was considered stable and friendly toward the U.S.
What would have happened had that aid not been provided?
An unsuccessful Egyptian revolution most likely.
I think one of the unintended but excellent consequences of that aid, was a strong, professional Egyptian military that now temporarily presides over an Egypt in transition, with the blessing of its citizens. The Egyptian military also prevented a complete bloodbath of citizens, thanks to it's allegiance to the people. At this point, our $1.3 billion annual investment, may have been worth it...
Of course, there's always a caveat. This political process in Egypt is far from over and it remains to be seen whether this scenario continues to play out in a positive manner. It also remains to be seen whether the military will relinquish control to an elected leader - at this point it looks very positive, but no one can tell the future.
The Future
Egyptians have a history of thriving under harsh conditions and making something from nothing, so they probably understand the long-term hardships of what they are undertaking. The excitement and jubilation that we see now, will soon be replaced by the the realization that a new government, constitution and way of living needs to be created. The Egyptians don't lack conviction or heart, but it's still going to be a difficult path, with a number of hazards along the way with a potential for the fledgling democracy to be derailed. Out of respect for what they are trying to do, we need to give them our support.
You don't have to travel to Egypt to feel for the people, but it certainly makes you feel connected in a stronger way. I can't hear news of Egypt and be dispassionate or turn the channel.
Obviously, Egypt is going to need to shore up its economy immediately, if it is to realize a better future. I know this is a lot to take in, but I would definitely urge you to visit Egypt once you feel safe enough to do so. About 11% of their economy is made up of tourism, so it would definitely be a huge support to them.
Not only would it help their economy, but it would allow you to meet these great people and to see first hand what they are trying to bring about.
Egyptians deserve a new start and I hope it ends up being all they they believe it will be. They've built something from nothing before, and once again, they will start back to work.
The Nile is a great river, but Egyptians are the true gift to Egypt.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Egyptians: A Gift to Egypt
Labels:
Egypt,
Egyptians,
Middle east,
politics,
revolution,
Uprising
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9 comments:
Great article. I really like your experiences in Egypts with the people who went out of their way to help you. Very cool. Challenging situation - I hope things continue to change peacefully.
awesome article. your storywriting is getting better and better with every article. keep it up
awesome article. your storywriting is getting better and better with every article. keep it up
Great blog and great memories. As someone who traveled throughout Egypt as recently as only a year and a half ago, the Egyptian people remain the same. Once they figured out I was an American, everyone wanted to talk to me. Mostly about Obama and how he was going to change the world (who had only months prior come into office), but many of the women, especially the Coptics, wanted to compare and contrast their lives to a younger American woman.
Most of the country is in poverty, with no forseeable way out. That is a part of the larger situation that happened there. But hopefully it has not diminished their curiosity and kindness that I had experienced.
While it was beyond shocking to see the pictures of the damage that was done inside of the Egyptian Museum, I am happy that it did not reverberate throughout the country. As Kris said, Nat Geo doesn't do just to seeing the monuments in person.
You are an engaging and talented writer! Thank you for your great blogs, Kris!!
Your article is fantstic. I really felt the people through your experience and love of them. I have been concerned that the militant muslims will try to take over the country, as well as the others fighting for their freedom. It is truly amazing how so many quicly followed Eqypt and more are on their way. I would like you to blog on this more and give your thoughts on what could happen if the extremists try to take over, I think they might. I support Egypt and was so happy to see them take their freedom, but what next for them with the threat always around of the muslim extremists. thanks keep writing. Shari
Thanks Ross, Aytac, Shari, JerseyshoreDeb and Anonymous for your nice comments - glad you enjoyed the post :)
I will probably do an update from time to time about Egypt, Africa & the Middle East and the ongoing changes in those places. It's an important time in their history as well as ours.
As for Muslim extremists in Egypt... I believe that most Egyptians prefer their secular style of government, but wanted a true democratic system that they can change through their votes. My feeling at this time, is that this is the way the country will go - a continued secular style government.
That said, things are still chaotic there and clear leaders haven't emerged yet, so over the course of the coming months, new leaders will define themselves.
It's always possible that a religiously extreme political organization may rise up, but, in my heart of hearts, I just don't think the majority would go for a more repressive government than what they had with Mubarak.
Considering Islamic governments like Iran and Saudi Arabia are facing their own uprisings right now, it doesn't seem to be the government of choice for the 21st Century Arab world. That said, neither are the corrupt dictators that stay in place year after year.
So, I'm guessing you will see something in between those two extremes - a different type of democracy than we have, but something that will hopefully work for their different cultures, religions and people.
This will be evolving over years - these things always take time.
I remember talk of S.Africa going communist after it's peaceful handover to ANC backed Nelson Mandela through elections. Their economy ended up being more of a problem than their politics as it turned out. Which is why the economies of Egpyt, Tunisia and any country that follows the revolutionary road, will be the most important factor of a successful transition.
Keep your eye on the groups that have the best plans to build the economy and you will probably see the political leadership emerge from those groups.
Great memories and information Kris. I wish more Americans would travel so they can see other cultures, governments, people and lands.
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